Month: March 2016

Day 15: Tokyo

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Sunday, March 20th, 2016

Ever since I was a small girl, I (Mere) had always wanted to visit Tokyo. My father would travel there for work, and while my mom was working, I was cared for by the wife (Chiaki) of one man (Mitsunori) my dad worked with who were living in DC from Japan for 3 years – see pictures below! My childhood was filled with lots of Japanese culture and traditions from this. Me running around in kimonos, watching Chiaki fold 1,000 crane origami, and reading Japanese children’s books which she translated. I was fascinated by the culture (and all the cute cartoon animals) from a young age.  So, now that we were IN Tokyo, I had to meet up! Having last seen them in 1990, it was over 20 years since seeing Mitsunori and Chiaki, but after meeting them in the hotel lobby that Sunday morning, it was like being reunited with family!  We were lucky in that they took us around, and our the first stop was Kamakura.  We jumped on the train for the 45 minute journey there.  One thing about the public transportation – it’s so crowded, but you never feel unsafe!  And it’s so efficient, clean, and always on time! Nick was happy with that.

Getting to Kamakura in the late morning, we step out of the station and the main street is almost around the corner.  Throngs of people fill the shop-lined street.  Shops filled with locally-made goods, amazing pastry and baked goods shops, ramen houses, sushi, and more.  We walked down the street, snacking on a couple of local treats along the way, and then as it was about time for lunch we stopped at a great little soba/udon shop that had some of the best noodles I’ve had!  We then continued exploring the streets and got on a bus to the Kōtoku-in Temple, a Buddhist temple from the 13th century.  The centerpiece of the area is a great outdoor Buddha, cast out of bronze and standing over 13 meters tall including the pedestal and weighing almost 100 tons.  The Buddha is hollow, and you’re allowed to walk inside. We also got lucky and saw more of the blooming cherry blossoms! Cherry blossom trees are EVERYWHERE, so I can only imagine how all of Japan looks when it is full bloom, which we are missing by about 3 days! I couldn’t convince Nick to stay…

We then went to the nearby local train station to hop on a train to the nearby island of Enoshima.  Enoshima has a shrine, some parks and gardens, an observation tower, and a hot spring.  A bit of a hike up to the top, and there are escalators (which there is a charge for), but skip the escalators and walk up as it’s a very nice, scenic walk.  The view from the top of the island is the nearby city of Fujisawa, and on clear days you can even see Mount Fuji!

For dinner, we went to a delicious tempura spot on the way back to the hotel.  We sat around the bar (kind of like a sushi bar, except with tempura) and the chef (Akai) cooked up a coursed meal for us.   The main meal was capped off by this delicious dish, called tendon, which is tempura on a bowl of rice (tendon is a combination of tempura and donburi).

The next morning, we were flying out in the evening, so had to rush to see more places in the morning.  We took the metro to the ferry building, where we would take a one hour river cruise up to Asakusa.  We went to Asakusa primarily to see the Sensō-ji Buddhist temple, featuring a giant red and black paper lantern at the outer gate.  This temple has been around in some form since ~600 A.D., and is generally very crowded with the Nakamise-Dori (the street leading from this front gate to the temple) lined with many small shops.

For lunch, we had tonkatsu (well, ebi katsu… but my first time!)… so good!  As we were running out of time, we only had a chance to see the outside of the Edo Museum and the Ryōgoku Kokugikan, or indoor Sumo hall… next time!

Our visit to Tokyo (and Japan) was too short, but we’re hoping to see all the things that we missed the next time.  Japan’s truly a wonderful, fascinating country and we’re really looking forward to the next time we can come back (and hopefully for longer). We were very sad to leave Japan, and put an end to our travels – for now!

From Dubai (which seemed like months ago!), to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Philippines, and Japan, we really had the most amazing time traveling around together. We saw so much, but also were able to relax and reflect on not only the cultures, but how lucky we were to experience all we had. Now, back to San Francisco…. which isn’t so bad a place to end up.

Day 14, Tokyo

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Saturday, March 19th, 2016

After a nice breakfast at the Aman Tokyo, we were off for more sightseeing! Everyone had always been raving about the Tsukiji Fish Market (one of the busiest fish markets in the world), and the tuna auctions there.  The market is open everyday except Sunday, so today would be our only real chance to see it!  The auctions start at ~5:30am, but only 120 people are allowed into this part each day.  People line up starting as early as 3am for this!  Of course, we elected to skip that part and just go visit the fish market.  The atmosphere can best be described as “frenetic”, with fish mongers yelling and using finger signs to communicate efficiently and electric fish carts whizzing by.  The sheer variety of the sea life there is incredible and I don’t think I had ever seen such large clams.  One thing our guide told us was that along with the large number of tourists came a host of issues and incidents, including one situation in which a still-drunk British tourist in his 20s decided that he wanted to hug a tuna at Hicho (an 8th generation, family-run 155 year old Maguro company) and then proceeded to drop it.  This tuna was reportedly valued at 2,000,000 Japanese yen (or somewhere in the vicinity of $20,000).  One other thing we explored were the stalls and shops in the Outer Market area, which was also very much abuzz with activity.  You can find everything from incredible knives (we got one), souvenirs, and treats here (our favorite, rolled omelette!).

After this, we went over to Ginza for a quick stop at the Sanrio store (which was huge), then on to the Akihabara district.  This now-modern area found its roots through the sale of basic electrical components from the period after World War 2 when people wanted to build their own radios.  Today, it is the center for video game, anime, and computer / electronic shops, as well as what are called “maid cafes”.  There are also several arcades here.  It’s incredible, because not having been to Tokyo before, my impression of the city had always been shaped by movies and I felt Akihabara best represented that view that had been formed, with the buzz of activity and the lights and some of the small, low-ceiling passageways.  What a cool place.

We then went to a bunny café (yes, this is a thing).  We were thinking of the owl café (yep, also a thing), but it was booked.  These places came up to address the need for affection, and bunnies / cats / owls fit that need.  We played with our new friends for a bit and then went to Kitchen Town to see all the fake display food for restaurant windows (so lifelike!) on our way to a demonstration by a couple of retired professional sumo wrestlers.

Sumo wrestling is a huge sport in Japan, and has been around for over a thousand years, with the first professional sumo wrestlers appearing during the Edo period (1600s).  This is sport steeped in centuries of Shinto tradition, and wrestlers follow a highly-regimented training program.  It’s very trying on their body and most retire by the time they’re 35.  The explanation of the importance of the sport and a demonstration of the rituals was very enlightening.  We even had some audience participation, with two of us (including Nick!) getting to… “wrestle” with the professionals!

Tonight also marked the last night our group would be together, and we had a wonderful cocktail reception (including a slideshow of Nick’s photos!) and sake dinner at the Aman.  This has been a wonderful group to go on this adventure with, Catherine Heald and the Remote Lands team did a great job planning the itinerary and executing on the whole trip. The experiences we gained and relationships we created were nothing we could have planned for or expected to happen. This trip will be one we will remember forever and look forward to our next adventure!! However, it’s not over just yet for us since we decided to stay an extra night in Tokyo. 🙂

Day 13: Tokyo

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Friday, March 18th, 2016

On Friday, we got an early start and our guide took us to the Imperial Palace, where the emperor / royal family still lives.  We then headed off to experience a traditional Japanese tea ceremony (chanoyu) at a very traditional tea house that is one of the very few remaining freestanding tea houses and has been around for more than 60 years.  It was a very touching experience that was akin to a full performance, with such particular aesthetics, movement, gesture, and etiquette. We felt very lucky to experience this.

After this, we went on to see Omotesandō street, a tree-lined avenue famous for the multitude of fashion flagship stores and a showcase of architecture (for example, the LV store designed by Jun Aoki and intended to look like a bunch of LV trunks stacked on each other, the Prada building by Herzog & de Meuron, Tod’s, and many others).  Harajuku (where Omotesandō is located) is a huge shopping district and also the center of Japanese youth culture and fashion.  Another major street is Takeshita street, an extremely crowded and happening pedestrian-only thoroughfare that’s lined with small boutiques and a ton of cafes and restaurants.  Mostly catering to the youth demographic, we noted a lot of photosticker shops, crepe and cotton candy spots, and other leading indicators of Japanese cultural trends.

After that, we went off to our sword fighting lesson (kenjutsu)!  We got to wear the robe, and we learned tons about body positioning, how to hold the katana, and we finally graduated to the real, sharp katana which we used to do an overhead slice of bamboo rods.  It’s an incredible skill to have (and probably even more enjoyable once you have more experience) and undoubtedly takes years and years of practice!

We next went to the Meiji Shrine, constructed from 1915-1926 and built in the traditional nagare-zukuri style.  It’s located in a forest covered by a forest consisting of >100,000 trees which were donated by people from all parts of Japan back when the shrine was established.  Our guide then brought us to Shibuya crossing, the busiest crosswalk with supposedly more than 2,000 individuals each light change, and also the site of (supposedly) the busiest Starbucks in the world.  We also saw the statue of Hachikō the dog, who had always waited for his owner at the Shibuya train station, even for years after his death.

We went to New York bar at the top of the Park Hyatt (where that early scene in the movie Lost in Translation took place) for drinks, before heading to Sushi Zanmai in the Tsukiji Outer Market area for a sushi dinner which was EXCELLENT! We had to wait 20 minutes outside for a table and I think the only Americans there, yay.

Day 12: Tokyo

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Thursday, March 17th, 2016

It was our 12th day after starting our trip in South East Asia, where we woke early to travel back to Manila where we’d take our jet to Tokyo (a ~3 hour flight).  It’s a bit sad to be leaving the peace and calm of Amanpulo, but we’re also very excited about getting to Tokyo and exploring all the wonders the city has to offer.

We land at Haneda Airport, one of the two primary airports in the Greater Tokyo area, and arrive at the Aman Tokyo by around 3:30.  Aman Tokyo is located on the top 6 floors of the Otemachi Tower a block east of the Imperial Palace grounds, and is also very close to the Tokyo Train Station (one of the busiest in Japan), Naka-Dori Street (filled with shops and office buildings), and the Tsukiji Fish Market.  First impressions… this was one of the most impressive lobbies in any hotel we’ve stayed at, the design throughout (lobby, dining area, hallways, our room, the pool, and spa/fitness center) is so beautiful and classy, and the staff is incredibly attentive and helpful. The Aman Tokyo is a destination in itself.

We spent the rest of the afternoon acclimating before our welcome cocktails with a special guest, Ambassador Tsuneo Nishida, the Japanese ambassador to the UN.  We had dinner along with some of other couples in our group at Ginza Sushikoh, a 15 minute walk from the Aman – this first sushi experience in Tokyo was so great!  It’s better than any sushi we had eaten in San Francisco, with fish that was just so fresh and delicious and such diligent, thoughtful preparation.

Day 10 & 11: Philippines

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We had the next few days for leisure, which came at the perfect time. Sailing, snorkeling, and so many other activities are offered at Amanpulo but we decided to not be as adventurous at this time around (besides Nick sailing around in the Laser boat), and the spa had our names all over it! We really enjoyed the next few days and could have definitely stayed just one more night. Pictures of our little paradise below!

Day 9: Philippines, Pamalican Island

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Monday, March 14th, 2016

After our royal send off, we were off to the Philippines. Our jet landed in Manila where we then took an Aman plane to Amanpulo, a tropical paradise island with a circumference around 6km. We were immediately greeted by cerulean skies and turquoise waters, a private retreat to recharge after the bustle of Luang Prabaung and Siem Reap. We were looking forward to doing a whole lot of nothing.

Checking into our beach casita, we were ready to move in. With views of the ocean and surrounding islands, we knew where we would be spending most our time these next few days. Also being assigned our own golf cart and bikes to patrol around the island, we were free to do as we pleased on our own time, island time.

Walking out onto the beach that night we enjoyed cocktails and a beautiful dinner as the sun set. We feasted on fresh fish, prawns, lobster, short ribs, and an assortment of salads. It was excellent.

 

Day 8: Cambodia

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Sunday afternoon, March 13th, 2016

Arriving back at the airport, we then boarded not our jet, but helicopters! I was a little nervous, but it was so much fun and a great way to see some of the more hard to get to temples (30 minute flight vs 3 hour drive!). Our flight path included views of a temple complex that was once the center of a large city, a waterfall, mountainous ruins, and various temples, even the temple we had dinner at the night before! Landing in the fields of a small village, it’s astonishing to find out that just a few years before, this area was filled with landmines. With the horrific recent history surrounding the Vietnam War, beyond the temples and ruins, visiting Cambodia is quite an emotional experience learning all that the people have gone through in the 1970’s and after. Everyone local we came across had some kind of story that they or their family endured during this time.

On a quite walk to Koh Ker, this temple was unlike any of the others we had seen yet as it was more of a step pyramid structure, with stairs that ran all the way up to the top. Our guide told us the reason for the steep steps up to the top is they are thought to be the “stairway to heaven”. Despite the heat (probably 95*F) we ran up to the top to catch views of the surrounding smaller temples that are now in ruins. It was hot, but we embraced it!

Before hopping back in the helicopter we visited one more temple in the area that the people would come to for fertility blessings. After our adventurous afternoon we made it back to Amansara for a light bite, swimming, and rest.

That night we ventured into Siem Reap for local Khmer food at Chanrey Tree, before headed to “Phare Ponleu Selepak”, a circus show of the people. It was a good night with a lot of fun where others in our Remote Lands group joined.

Day 8: Cambodia at Sunrise

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Sunday morning, March 13th, 2016

We rose before dawn to watch the sunrise over the majestic Angkor Wat, one of the world’s most famous attractions. Built in the 12th century as the capital of King Suryavarman II’s kingdom, it is the largest and best-preserved of the Angkor temples, and the only one to have remained a significant religious center (first Hindu, then Buddhist) since its founding. Being there at 6:00am, it was fantastic to explore all around Angkor Wat before the tour buses arrived.

Finishing up at Angkor Wat, we then jetted over to Ta Prohm Temple before the crowds showed up. It was now still before 8:00am so we had great timing. Ta Prohm was definitely our favorite of all temples, and was actually featured in the movie Tomb Raider due to it’s unreal setting. The ruins date from 1186 and have been allowed to be reclaimed by the jungle and a huge archeological area due to all the discoveries they are finding as they restore the temple.

After our adventurous morning, we had an authentic Khmer breakfast overlooking one of the reservoirs. It was a lovely way to end the morning!

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Day 7: Cambodia

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Saturday, March 13, 2016

We rose early with the goal of beating the heat and the crowds as we explored some of the temples (aka Wats) in the Great Capital of Angkor. Angkor was the capital of the Khmer Empire, which flourished from the 9th to 15th centuries. The temples of the Angkor area number over one thousand, ranging in scale from nondescript piles of brick rubble scattered through rice fields to the Angkor Wat, said to be the world’s largest single religious monument. Visitors approach two million annually making this a popular destination, and is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our first spot was enigmatic Bayon. Our knowledgeable guide went over the history of this temple, and we were able to thoroughly explore the ruins… it was great as there was practically no one else there besides us!

Next we moved onto Angkor Thom (Great City), which was an immense city and the capital of the Mahayan Buddhist King Jayavarman VII’s empire. The city is a square, with walls 8m tall and 3km long on each side, and surrounded by a moat. The Bayon (temples) mixes both Hindu and Buddhist iconography and its several terraces contain 54 towers with facades of stone faces.

After exploring the site, we then found a private temple off in the woods to enjoy some breakfast.

Getting back to the car, we then went further out to visit Banteay Srei, a temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and nicknamed the “Citadel of Women”. A jewel-box of red sandstone, it is famed for its intimate size and the intricacy of its carvings.

After being a bit templed-out for the day, we changed up our day to see a different side of Cambodia’s culture, at a dance school! Ravynn Karet Coxen opened the Conservatoire of Aspara Dance as part of a humanitarian effort to deliver the essentials to the rural areas of Cambodia, including vaccinations, clean water, and education. A traditional dance was put on by the children along with a lotus blessing. I had no idea how much hard work, dedication, and stretching was required to master the traditional dance. These dancers of the Sacred Dancers of Angkor troupe, who train everyday for hours on end, were truly incredible, and in 2013 they (~30 dancers) had the opportunity to spend a month in four cities in the US (Boston, Washington D.C., New York, and Los Angeles), and it was touching to hear their stories. It was such a special way to spend the afternoon that everyone enjoyed. This was then followed by a traditional lunch (feast as I would call it) of lobster, fish, chicken, and much, much more! Once we returned to the hotel, we swam laps and then made it to the spa for some extra relaxation before dinner.

A special dinner was planned for us that night at Banteay Samre. It was fabulous and quite the event! We enjoyed gourmet Khmer cuisine on the grounds of the incredibly well-preserved temple, and were treated to a variety of performances, including traditional Cambodian dances.

Day 6: Cambodia

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Friday, March 11th, 2016

The next leg of our trip was to Siem Reap, otherwise known as the cultural capital, filled with incredible landscape and temples. Upon our arrival at the airport, we were picked up by Amansara’s fleet of vintage, classic 1960s Mercedes.

Amansara is at the threshold of Angkor Archaeological Park, containing the vast ruins of the largest pre-industrial urban settlement on Earth. The Amansara is the former guesthouse of King Sihanouk, so it has the charm and intimacy of a private home and is filled with jasmine flowers everywhere. The smell permeates the entire atmosphere, and is absolutely splendid. The Amansara was opened in 2002, keeping as much of it as it once was, but with the modern comforts and updates of Aman. Back in the 60s this is where Jacqueline Kennedy would stay, so it has always been the most fabulous place in Siem Reap, and I’m sure Angelina Jolie would agree. We had a beautiful room, with a great layout and highly attractive design, and fish pond and our own private pool.

With a few hours of afternoon left, we grabbed our remork (Cambodian tuk tuk) driver and hit the downtown. We buzzed around and saw local crafts being made. It was impressive to see all of the stone carvings being made by hand.

Stopping off in Kandal Village, we went through many great shops. It appears that this is the upsale shopping district in the old French quarter where many expats have opened up businesses. We especially liked the Little Red Fox Espresso (I had a lemongrass-ginger iced coffee which was the BEST ever!), but when the power blew out in this area (and probably many other areas) of Siem Reap due to excessive heat (we arrived during a heat wave) and also infrastructure upgrade projects, we bolted back to the Amansara to enjoy the pool and some air con.

After freshening up we were out that night for a party that was hosted by a haute couture Malagasy designer, Eric Raisina. We had a lot of fun, met many ex-pats who were friends with Catherine and our other local Aman friend, Sally, and it also included a fashion show! Nick and I both left with some pieces as a nice souvenir and headed back to the Amansara for a nice dinner.